Friday is always a welcome sight for sore eyes, but even more so today because we were in eager anticipation of the official opening of a new eatery down the street from us here in Silver Lake’s Sunset Junction. Sliding into the space formerly occupied by Town & Country, a dining spot that was neither here nor there (nor ever open at the hours that would have best served the locale), Forage may be the perfect new addition to our lively section of Los Angeles.
Jason Kim (I’d assume I went to school with him, but Jason+Kim is like the “Joe Smith” of Korean-Americans) was the sous-chef at the venerable LA dining institution Lucques. And like Suzanne Goin’s best, Kim doesn’t over fuss his food, relying on a keen eye and taste bud for in-season produce, playing matchmaker with ingredients we all know and already love, but adding something a little bit extra which adds to both presentation and taste. And presentation is another notable success at Forage; upon entering, diners are greeted by a Broadway production illuminated display case, magnifying a colourful assemblage of this week’s best produce, carved meats and a variety of baked goods all reminding you to save a little room for later. Forage made a smart move by presenting the food in this manner, as diners like ourselves find themselves in excited anticipation as new foods are brought out or put together just a few feet away. It’s like an Amsterdam peepshow, except your mouth wets instead of your drawers.
We actually walked down in hopes they’d be opening officially for lunch today, but alas, they were still putting the finishing touches in the kitchen when we peeked inside with our amiga, Jenny of next door crafting business, Home Ec. Bummer, but that didn’t deter us from heading down again, this time for dinner. Emily ordered a trio of vegetable dishes from the wide selection of options, including the market vegetables (rutabagas, carrots, turnips, sugar snaps, and asparagus, with Meyer lemon and parsley leaves), dilly beets, and honey mustard chickpeas and greens. I found myself drawn to the rotisserie Jodori chicken, poultry locally grown and proudly served by the friendly staff; with crisp skin and the satisfying draw of oil underneath, the chicken is a satisfying accomplice to the even better baby broccoli with chile, shallot, and garlic that joined my own serving of market veggies. Servings are generous, prices are modest, and there’s a great likelyhood Forage has become our favourite local eatery, especially exciting because the menu will change according to seasonal availability. The restaurant even asks diners to bring in their own locally grown garden ingredients, with the kitchen offering to incorporate them into your meal! How’s that for local dining?
3823 West Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles 90026